The City That Never Sleeps




Japan 2023: Dining fine

posted : Friday, May 12, 2023
Started day early again, though obviously not as early as the last two days even though brain wanted to but heart won out in the end. Contemplated hotel breakfast but took a look at the spread and was like, meh. So off to Kyoto station to catch a train to Arashiyama! 

Arriving at Saga-Arashiyama station

Another popular spot which is why I wanted to start day early, but at 9.30 it wasn’t quite early enough oh well. But I still covered the forest in about half an hour, looped around towards Togetsu Bridge and what do I see? Coffee to pick me up and given that my next activity is scheduled at 11am…I, much to the chagrin of those back home, decided to join a queue for %Arabica. 

Already had to employ this technique and still can’t get rid of ppl

Soothing

Along the river

Then joining this queue lol

In my defense, it’s good coffee and it’s a latte blend which wasn’t sold elsewhere so. (Update: found it in SG stores too so yea no more excuses)

Ended up having to rush a bit and squeeze through the Bamboo Forest crowd which had well built up by now, towards the Arashiyama Torokko train station. Boarded the Sagano Romance Train, which ideally should be booked in advance apparently but I only bought when I reached Arashiyama station in the morning, because I found out about this too late and hence the mentality is to only go for it if there’s ticket. Well I did manage to get a round trip ticket in the end, though typical recommendation is to take a boat back from Kameoka station but I decided to save some time for other activities, not big on boat ride anyway. Although I only managed to get an open air car on the return trip but that’s fine. 

View on the way to Kameoka

The open air car which meant glass roof, but otherwise view is the same

I feel like Sakura is more sporadic alr towards the end of the blooming season

Oddly reminded of zombies with all the hands reaching out to take phoyos

One with the train!

Back in Arashiyama proper, idea was to get lunch but didn’t manage to find any recommendations online with my reluctance to use too much data. In any case queues are forming everywhere by now. But walked past this dessert shop which caught my eye, and there’s only a 2-3 person queue (guess coz dessert is a post lunch thing haha) so went in. Only found out later that it was one of the IG posts that I saved for reference so all’s good. 

Cheese tofu is all the rage here

Shopfronts of Arashiyama

Sakura lined street

Kumonocha, didn’t get the cloud shaped cakes but ended up with a matcha one and (gasp) black sesame matcha latte

This prawns are hugee

Hung out around Togetsukyo 

More Sakura shots

Sat here people watching for quite a while

Checked train timings and decided that I should head back to Kyoto station, so that I have some time to hang around the station area, ideally a cafe. Had drank a cup of coffee and a cup of matcha by this point which is already way beyond my daily caffeine limit lol but given that I still have quite a bit of sleep debt to pay off I figured I should be alright. Initially had wanted to go to this cake place which I passed by near the Gojo area (this street is kinda underrated imo) but it happened to be closed on Wednesdays and I ended up not returning to the area. Searched a bit then settled down for this highly rated place called Kurasu. 

This actually wasn’t my order (barista got it wrong and I only realized after I took a sip) but it’s a better photo lol

And then I found out SG has a branch too hahaha

Decided to stroll back to hotel to freshen up before dinner, and chanced across this Don Quijote branch. And I’m like ehhh why not just settle some of the shopping here so I did. 

Dinner! One of the things I missed out on in Kyoto the last time round was a kaiseki meal, I think it was maybe a bit out of budget for some of us at that time. This time I booked this place way in advance - selected this place because I was able to find an English site to book it and it’s apparently rather foreigner friendly. And it is not astronomically expensive, and it has two michelin stars hahah. I did have to pay in advance via the concierge website though after they confirmed my booking, and while there weren’t options for solo dining, I left a note and they replied me after a day or two to confirm that I have secured a booking for one, together with payment instructions. 

I was envisioning a counter seat coz solo dining..but lady at reception very enthusiastically announced “4 persons!” And I was like nooo one only. “Ehhhh?” And I could only show her my confirmation email (which was unfortunately in English) but it did have the numeral “1” so I think she got my message, went back and check a bit. Not sure what happened backend but she admitted me in anyway while apologizing profusely. Hahaha I really am not sure if I deserved that but okay..but I ended up having a private room all to myself. Which kinda defeated the purpose a bit coz I wanted a counter seat to see chefs in action, but I guess those seats have already been reserved by someone else so oh well. 

Food pics below! Was taking notes every time server left, English was passable for me to know what I am eating (I suppose they got the note that I don’t take beef, either that or they happened to not have beef on the menu on that day). Service wise, felt rushed because server kept opening my door to peek if I am done with a particular course so they can serve the next, but I guess overall it was understandable coz they do have many courses to serve, and overall the meal still took slightly over two hours. 

Prawn and yuba starter

Sea bream, yomogi paste, fried tofu. 

Sashimi platter! Kinmedai, tuna and sea bream

Chawanmushi

Main course of sorts? Assorted items on skewers, maybe will list them down proper on FB

Grilled maguro

Skipping to fruits, I remember this being super simple but somehow super sweet and good

Wagokoro Izumi. Staff saw me out and bowed to me alllll the way till I disappear around the corner omg. Had to peek to see that he has gone back in before heading back to take this pic hahah

But all in all it was a good meal la. If there was a bit more English I might have a better idea on how high quality the ingredients were, but it is what it is. 

Back to hotel which I kinda didn’t want to head back too late, coz it’s onsen day for guys and duly reported to the basement level after dinner. Surprisingly (or come to think of it, maybe unsurprisingly) not very empty but oh well, almost used to it by now hahahah. 

And that’s (almost) it for Kyoto!

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