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Japan 2018: Sweating it out
posted : Tuesday, January 29, 2019
(Long post alert, but juicy if you can get through it lol)
Since sun sets early which limits activities outside, days usually start early. At least while we still have momentum to wake up early. We had a target to catch the 10.48am train to Oshamambe, in order to catch a connecting train that will allow us to arrive in Kutchan during daytime. And we still have some sightseeing in Hakodate to do so no choice but to start day early. Packed up and checked out by 8am, then headed back to Jiujigai and the Motomachi area. Weather looks promising as we left the hotel (there's blue sky!) but progressively appeared worse during the 10 minute tram ride. Not even kidding. By the end of the 10 minutes, we stepped out of the tram into a dark and gloomy Motomachi. And by the time we trekked uphill to our first stop, the Catholic Church, the snow came down in full force. So much for sightseeing in good weather.
Blue skies!
Blue skies no more!
Cant emphasize enough how difficult it is to walk up hill. But it does makes for good photos.
Church
Snow is sooooo thick.
Entrance to the church. We didnt go in.
The weather is so volatile here - blue skies would appear for like 10 minutes as the dark clouds pass, but another clump of dark clouds would move in and snow would come down in full force again.
Walking to our next destination.
Former Hakodate Branch Office of Hokkaido Government. Now a Visitor's Centre.
See what I meant. Blue skies are out
Can even get a clear view of Mt Hakodate
Whereas you turned around and see...another clump of dark clouds.
So we were done in less than an hour and back to Hakodate Ekimae we go, with the intention to hang around in the station while waiting for our train. But remembered this cafe which we kept passing by for the past two days so decided to have proper breakfast instead of our Family Mart stash. Turns out Pronto Cafe is a chain that has so many branches Japan-wide.
Tram interior.
Pronto Cafe
Breakfast
Sat down for a quick meal, because halfway through the sister was like maybe we should go to the station platform early to ensure that we can get a seat on the train in the non-reserve seating carriages. Brilliant idea so we finished up quickly, went back to the hotel to grab our luggage and head to the station. Can see a few people hovering indoors waiting to go out to the platform, so we stayed close to the doors attempting to start a queue. Then a couple of people actually decided to brave the weather and head out to the platforms to wait, and you can see people panicking and starting to follow suit so of course we did. And picked a door and started a queue. Train arrived and hallelujah we were first on the train, luggage got their space and so did we *kiasu*
Snow covered tracks
View from platform.
Off to Kutchan! There isnt a direct train so had to alight at Oshamambe, and catch a connecting local train, much like a MRT kind of seating. One thing that annoys me in Japanese train stations though, is the lack of BFA. To cross train tracks we had to carry luggage up a POB across the tracks and we have to do that at almost all stations we have been to.
Oshamambe platform
Had a one hour plus layover at Oshamambe and decided against going into the station waiting room, so we camped out on the POB itself hahaha smart. That way we dont have to carry luggage up and down and the moment anybody tries to go down to the tracks we would follow suit (there are many waiting for the said connecting train). So in this manner we manage to get seats for the Oshamambe-Kutchan leg too, together with what seems like a big Hokkien-speaking Indonesian Chinese family, presumably one of those well off ones because there was a lady calling presumably home talking about leaving 20k bee kim (USD) somewhere in the house O.O *eavesdropping*
Snacks from Hakodate for lunch
Anyway realize that local trains arent as punctual as we thought they will be (always have an impression that Japanese trains are always punctual and if they were two minutes late the company or the staff will issue public apologies with bows etc) but maybe those only apply for Shinkansen. So we arrived at Kutchan way past 3pm, and missed the shuttle bus to our hotel. ETA was 2.57pm and to be honest it would have been a stretch to make it to the 3pm bus anyway. Contemplated walking to the hotel (which is about 1km away, 15minute walk which doesnt sound too bad) but nahhh the snow and snow covered pavement is not conducive for walking so took public bus instead.
Arriving in Kutchan
Donan bus outside Kutchan station
Look at the amount of snow that has accumulated1
We were among the last in line to board the bus (only a couple more managed to squeeze in) which is reminiscent of the one from Noboribetsu Station to onsen (actually same company, Donan bus). Checked with the bus captain beforehand if he is dropping off at Lerch Memorial Park, the nearest landmark to our hotel (showed him google) and he very smartly guessed that we are going to First Cabin. Smart because this hotel literally opened just a month ago so we dont expect many people to have heard about it. So hurriedly nodded and he said yes, so onto the bus we go. Luckily we were one of the last to board so Last In First Out, coz most people are heading to Hirafu and the resorts/hotels there which is the last stop. So he very helpfully called us when we arrived at the stop and we alighted....to a snow covered path. Which is so thick that it is impossible to drag our luggage. Now we realise how 小儿科 Hakodate's snow is as compared to here =.= No choice but to carry our 20+ kg luggages for about 70m + across the road to the hotel. Got a real workout here, sweating even by the time we entered the hotel lobby.
Snow along footpath is way too thick. Had to lift luggage above shoulders and bring it over a wall of snow, then carry it along the footpath
First Cabin!
Check in process was slowwwww. There was only one receptionist staff on hand settling the couple in front of us, and that took forever. Until a second staff who was previously walking around seemingly doing housekeeping work came over and checked us in. I think they all play multiple roles, because the next afternoon the same lady was in full receptionist wear at the counter, before changing into a polo and going on her housekeeping rounds ahahaha. Anyway while checking in she politely told us check in time is actually 5pm lolol it was actually on our itinerary but we didnt realize. So they were kind of already checking us in early at about 4pm. By the way, First Cabin is a capsule hotel. The theme is a first class cabin on a plane (think SQ First Class suites) so each capsule is actually kind of like a cabin (pictures below) and they stuck to this theme of being on a flight throughout. Cabins cannot be locked (there's only a partition door for ventilation purposes I suppose) although there is a locked compartment under your bed which can be used to store valuables. TV in the room, headphones provided, and there is a tiny ventilation column on top which at least is better than the last capsule hotel I stayed in, at KLIA2. And as with capsule hotels bathrooms are shared. We took a cabin each in the male and female areas respectively. Thought it may be good to be apart for a while lol. Premium and family cabins with more than one person per room are also available. They also have common areas, lockers and drying areas (to store and dry your skiing equipment) and most unique of all (First Cabin is a franchise) is that this one comes with onsen as well so I made up my mind to go for it - more on it later.
My cabin. Female cabins are exactly the same.
Corridor
Common area
Deposited our belongings in the room and immediately headed out because the next shuttle to the slopes is leaving soon. Idea was to head to Hirafu for dinner and collect our ski equipment because we figured we dont have much time the next morning (as Hirafu is about 20-30 minutes away from the hotel and lessons start at 10).
Ski slopes where there are some people doing night skiing.
Headed downhill towards the intersection in search of food. For the amount of snow that was perpetually falling, surprisingly they dont accumulate on footpath and roads, not even ice so it was a bit easier to walk on (still have chunks of ice here and there la). Was thinking of an izakaya for dinner, read up on quite a few good ones but figured that we dont intend to drink anyway so it would have been a waste. Ended up spotting Niseko Pizza at the intersection (which I read good reviews on) so we went in. Then I remembered reading about requiring reservations too upon entering coz there is a queue. Did a check with the staff if it is even remotely possible for us to get a sit via walk-ins and....we were in luck! Since we didnt mind bar seats they managed to clear up two seats and we were in within 10 minutes. Heng ah.
Icy slope. Today's just about navigating slopes, snow covered or icy.
Ribs
Pizza
Anyway for the record, food was great though I think its kind of overseasoned, borderline salty. Post-dinner, headed to our ski rental shop near the junction. Already pre-booked and paid for it so we just needed to get ourself kitted out. Lots of customers so it took a while to get everything settled, station by station (boots, jacket/pants, ski and poles). Then has to carry them all upslope to the Welcome Centre to catch our shuttle bus back :( More workout sigh.
Hirafu intersection. Our rental shop is just two blocks up.
And upon reaching the Welcome Centre, after waiting for a while, we discovered that shuttle bus ceased operations already because night time bus only runs on Sundays and other specific dates (public holidays mostly) sigh. Incomplete research. So once again, Donan bus to head back to First Cabin and the good news is the return bus stops at the correct side of the road almost in front of the hotel (and we didnt have 20kg+ luggage, "only" ski equipment). Tired out by the time we reach...left equipment in our room (now that I think of it, could have left it in lockers but too tired to think at that point) and head back out to Lawson which is just outside the hotel, to grab the next morning's breakfast. Then headed back to shower and it's onsen time! (Wow I didnt think this day was so eventful that this post became so text-heavy). (Also warning graphic details ahead so skip if you are feeling squeamish). I think the fact that this hotel is new has its perks. Love the design, even the shared toilets and bathroom (separate areas). Each individual bathroom stall has a dry and wet area with a door separating them, which is really nice to have. Showered, then headed to the lockers. Hesitated slightly, but stripped off and entered the public bath area in my birthday suit. The last time round when we went Japan, I immediately declined to go when onsen was brought up. I actually even wanted to veto against it and took it out of the itinerary but gave in when I realize that it's a complex with other activities so I told them I would wait for them while they go in. Have read and understood the onsen culture in Japan which requires you to go in fully naked, and actually at this point even going topless is an issue for me because I am just not comfortable showing my body, full of scars/discoloration as a result of my ongoing battle with psoriasis. I knew it wasn't about fats or private parts (much) because, hey, not every dude in the world has perfect body shape with merman lines and all. And of course the classic line, "what you have, I also have" (just different sizes ahahaha). Even with close friends like KH...I didnt think I was ready to show anybody back then (sorry KH - even though i think you caught a glimpse that time when we were changing into yukatas). That didnt change during trip planning this time round as I opted for private in-room onsen at Noboribetsu. But I can't say exactly what has changed since arriving in Japan but there is a sudden aha moment when I realise, who cares? They can look and then? They will probably forget about it in like half an hour. Even if they want to be those judgy kind or kepo kind who approach you and talk to you about remedies (much like those nosey aunties in Sg - really, I used to have strangers, aunties approaching me and asking if i had chicken pox back in the days pre-phototherapy - or hairdressers who cut my hair recommending various remedies or outright refusing in disgust to serve me), I wouldnt be able to understand a word anyway lol. It also helped that I had this feeling that my skin was in relatively good condition - not too scaly, just reddish at parts that regularly flare up. And after Noboribetsu I was raring to try onsen again. Also when I recce-d the place before heading to Hirafu in the afternoon, doesnt seem to have too many people, probably even lesser at 10pm? So...eff it. Let's do this. There was only one other person changing at the same time, who entered the public bath area after me while I washed a second time (also to get body used to temperature before entering onsen proper). and was even less open than me in a sense that he consciously have his hand over his private parts at all times, even inside the onsen (sorry). Eventually more people came in including two guys whom I overheard and detected Singlish. But generally unless you are with a friend, nobody actually talks/socializes because actually come to think of it...that's a weird place to do so. In other words past worries were unfounded. So I thought that was definitely a personal hurdle which I have managed to overcome. Definitely not exaggerating when I say that is among the biggest takeaway from this trip - that really, don't place too much emphasis on others' views, or even try to guess what their views were because you cant control them. Went off when the profuse sweating started, towel down and went back to my cabin where lots of snoring people can be heard already sigh. Reminds me of why I didnt like capsule hotels, but kinda no choice this time round coz we were really late to book a place and the resort hotels at Hirafu have all been taken up already/super expensive, we werent prepared to splurge again after Noboribetsu. Still found time to go over to Lawson one more time to get more drinks because Niseko Pizza was really super well seasoned.
Gulping down another drink. This one tasted artificial.
That's the end of a long day (and post hahah). |